39. Experimenting With Chinese Elm

This is something new for me.

I have a few friends who have to cut down trees sometimes. Sometimes the trees are growing in inconvenient places or their root systems are growing into sewer lines. What ever the reason, I asked these guys to cut slabs for me to use in my art. A few weeks ago one of my friends brought me four slabs of Chinese Elm.

Chinese Elm, Ulmus parvifolia, Lacebark, grows to a height of (20 to 60 feet.) Leaves have a broad vase like shape and are (0.8 to 2.5 inches.) They have pendulous branches. Here in Wyoming their leaves are a light grayish green. In warmer regains they are often ever green.

This particular species is resistant to Dutch Elm disease.
Fungal spores, introduced into wounds in the tree caused by the beetles, invade the xylem or vascular system.

Most species produce fine timber with a distinctive pattern. The timber resists decay when waterlogged, thus making it quite useful in certain specialized uses, such as serving as underwater pilings. Other uses include furniture making. Some woodworkers believe that, that's all it is good for. Some say it is only good for fire wood. Others like it for their turning projects, such as making bowls, or decorative carvings.

In my research I have found that the hardest part of working with Chinese Elm is the drying process. The wood tends to want to move, warping every which way. The drying time depends on the thickness of the slab. It also requires a lot of weight on top for it to help prevent the warping. Some woodworkers use kilns to dry it. Others use kilns and time. From what I've found all use weight on top.

I haven't started to prepare any of them for burning. I want to wait for several more weeks to begin the sanding and so fourth. This hard wood and can only be worked with power tools. So when ready I'm going to have to give in and use a power palm sander.

It is obvious to me that this wood was cut against the grain, rather then with the grain. This is another reason I'm going to have to use a power palm sander.

Side 1.

Side 2.

I'm hoping to be able to keep the bark on it when I get ready to start creating a burnt picture on it. I like the way it has separated and resembles a handle. If it turns out that I can I will use wood glue to secure it to the wood.

A shot of how the bark looks right now.

Bark: gray or brown, rough, furrowed.

This is my experiment. When I'm ready to start working it, I plan to do a step by step series. This won't happen for a month or maybe more depending on how it's drying.

In the mean time I have some projects in mind for my favorite wood (pine.) As some of you know pine is my favorite wood to create on. But I want to expand some and experiment. That's what artists do right?

Check out this blog about wood lathe tools.